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J. Breathtaking-Backbreaking- Brutal-Ballito

The breaking wave hit me as hard as a tuna hitting a popper! I went down in the churning water, sand and sea lice and rolled out on the beach like a discarded rag doll. My kayak washed up on the beach like an empty whiskey bottle after a “no tears” party. It was my third, unsuccessful attempt to break through the shore dump that was pounding the beach. I was wet, cold, miserable, humiliated and ready to give up. But I remembered what Mohammed Ali once said: “Inside the ring or out, there is nothing wrong with going down – it is staying down that is wrong.”

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